Labdanum

Labdanum is the resin of the Cistus (rockrose) shrub, native to the Mediterranean. Historically harvested by combing the beards of goats that grazed on the shrubs, today it's solvent-extracted. Labdanum smells of warm amber, leather, and a smoky incense — and it's the structural backbone of every 'amber' accord (alongside benzoin and vanilla). It's also the source of ambrein, a key precursor to ambergris-like notes. Labdanum is the reason 'amber' fragrances have depth rather than just sweetness.